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Первое зимнее восхождение на Торре Эггер в Патагонии (Видео)

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Штефан Зигрист (Stephan Siegrist), Дани Арнольд (Dani Arnold) и Томас Зенф (Thomas Senf) совершили первое зимнее восхождение на Торре Эггер (2685 метров) в Патагонии. 

Три дня и три ночи продлился их рывок к вершине. Альпинисты использовали все возможные, даже самые короткие мгновения хорошей погоды для поступательного передвижения наверх. В обед 3 августа они стояли на вершине Торре Эггер. Восхождение было проведено в чистейшем «альпийском стиле» — без предварительной обработки, без перил, без забросок.

Штефан Зигрист один из самых опытных «патагонистов». Он уже стоял на всех четырех вершинах массива Серро Торре, в том числе и на Торре Эгер, но всегда в летнее время. Поэтому он имел представление о маршруте. Кроме того альпинисты были более чем прекрасно подготовлены. Прибыв в Эль Чалтен 27 июля они оказались в настоящей «зимней сказке». снег по колено, опустевшие улицы, полное отсутствие туристов. Исходя из своего богатого опыта альпинисты настраивались на выматывающее душу и тело ожидание хорошей погоды.

Обычно альпинисты проводят львиную часть своего времени в ожидании хорошей погоды. Ее периоды кратки и призрачны, нормальное погодное состояние в этих краях — дождь и ветер. Кроме всего прочего дневное время в июле в южном полушарии чертовски короткое. Зима на дворе, поэтому светает в 9:30, а темнеет уже в 18:30. Поэтому нужно быть готовым к рывку в случае улучшения погодных условий.

Для того, что бы быть готовым начать восхождение в любой момент парни затащили под гору все необходимое для рывка снаряжение. Было очень холодно; до -25 С, а снега было так много, что приходилось копать траншею по пояс в снегу. 31 июля парням удалось поднести первую часть материала под гору. Прогноз был не плох, может даже очень не плох, возможно даже на столько не плох, что имело смысл попробовать рвануть к вершине? Тиролец Марио Вальдер (Mario Walder) сослался на проблему с коленом и спустился обратно в Эль Чалтен. Оставшиеся три альпиниста, согласовав предварительно все с уходящим Марио, решили предпринять рывок на столько, на сколько позволят условия.

Еще прежде чем дойти до начала маршрута они попали в пылевую лавину. Через три минуты облако осело и альпинисты, по словам Штефа: «добились эффекта утреннего холодного душа — все были взбодрены и веселы!» Ну как минимум они наконец проснулись. В первый же день им удалось подняться наверх ледопада между Серро Торре и Серро Стандхардт — идеальное место для первого бивака. На следующе утро они продолжили свой путь по системе трещин, которые как и ожидалось по зиме были заполнены натечным льдом.

Для того, что бы очистить очередной зацеп или место для страховочной точки, приходилось сначала выбить молотком лед из трещины. Когда Томас Зенф, который был не только штатным фотографом экспедиции, но и полноценным забойщиком в команде, вылез вперед — и через пару метров попытался облезть ледово-снежную нашлепку размером в 2х2 метра — раздался хлопок и она, развалившись на части, полетела вниз. Вместе с ней со стены полетел и сам Том. Стеф и Дани получили льдом по голове, слава богу кроме солнцезащитных очков другие отделы мозга не пострадали. Том пролетев семь метров то-же отделался легким испугом. Теперь на очереди был продолжительный раверс, тем временем вечерело. По небу ползли цирруса, окрашенные закатным солнцем в рубиновый цвет. Похолодало и поднялся ветер. Было ясно, что ночь в подвешенном состоянии может печально закончиться и парни решили продолжить восхождение. Стало еще холоднее. Еще позже, в 3:30, спустя 22 часа безостановочного лазанья они добрались до ровной площадки у основания «вершинного гриба».

Это эфемерное образование представляло собой последний неприступный бастион на их пути! Патагонские «грибы» не предсказуемы и опасны. Часто абсолютно непреодолимы. Это не лазанье а некий процесс обмана гравитации посредством расположения конечностей в непонятной последовательности и надежде, что ажурные снежные образования выдержат вес альпиниста. Понятно, что для подобной эквилибристики необходим, как минимум, дневной свет. Короче отрыв в снегу каждый по ямке они залезли в спальники, прижались друг к другу и накрылись сверху палаткой. Штефан Сигрист: «Каждый из нас сидел и молча проигрывал в уме самые грустные сценарии: а что будет если нас в непосредственной близости от вершины накроет патагонский ураган»? Начало светать, ветер прибавил в силе. Кроме того все небо было в цирусах — явный признак ухудшающейся погоды. Так близко от вершины парни решили не сдаваться. Замерзшими руками они начали рыться в «грибном» иние.

Штефан знал, что прошедшим летом на Торре Эггер было несколько успешных восхождений по маршруту «Титаник», а это значило что с южной стороны «гриба» должен был существовать прорытый в инее туннель. Это могло стать их шансом быстро и без приключений подняться до высшей точки. Как говорится, кто не рискует, тот не пьет шампанского! Туннель был на месте и лазанье по нему не было безумно сложным. Дани пролидировал оставшиеся три веревки до вершины. В обед 3 августа Штефан Зигрист, Дани Арнольд и Томас Зенф стали первыми альпинистами достигшими вершину Серро Эггер в зимнее время. Ну а самое потрясающее заключалось в том, что всего неделю назад они вылетели из летней Швейцарии в Южную Америку. Штефан Зигрист: «Нам понадобится некоторое время, что-бы осознать произошедшее. Мы были готовы ко всему, кроме того, что все произойдет так быстро!!!»


Фото: Thomas Senf
Рассказ: Stephan Siegrist
Перевод: Игорь Ивашура



Дата публикации:

Комментарии пользователей

Добавлено: 13:32 - 18.10.2010
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Yarik

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